Biko is the restaurant run by three gentlemen: Gerard Bellever from Barcelona (Spain), Bruno Oteiza from San Sebastian (Spain) and Mikel Alonso from Biarritz (France). So I would say it’s a Basque-Mexican fusion cuisine.
The place is classy, simple and elegant, with design furniture and a hall with high ceiling. The service is simply perfect.
We took the tasting menu with wine pairing. So here we begin !
First course, a foie gras with salty caramel and licorice sauce, topped with chocolate silky pearls. We liked the idea of licorice sauce which raised the softness of the foie gras and caramel, but the whole dish was a little too sweet for me.
The seconde course, a salty lobster “cannelé” with algae, salicorn and tarragon vinegar in a soft small white pearl, that reminds me a little the molecular cuisine. It’s beautiful, it’s technically super well done. But the white wine suggested didn’t go with, it was a white wine of godello cepage from Galicia (Spain).
So the next dish was a dehydrated mushroom and a mexican herbs (of which I forgot the name) in a creamy mushroom sauce and mousse, with crispy maize strings (the green ones). It was delicate, I would like have something spicy to give some peps.
So the no vegetarian dish arrive, it was a perfectly cooked lobo de mar (sea bass) with its red pepper sauce in a beef-fish mixed broth, the broth was totally limpid and had a very nice consistency.
The following dish was a piece of pork in a mexican mole (with ancho chili), the realization of the mole was amazing, it was dense, tasty, shiny like a mirror. The meat was greatly done, soft and juicy. It was my favorite dish.
So come the dessert time, the firste one: an espuma made of green amaranth (quintonil) and cenizo herbs, sorbet with basil and pipicha (a Mexican herb similar to cilantro but has also lemon and anise flavors), the pastry on the bottom was made of avacado and Santa leaves (hoja santa), it’s a 100% herbal dessert. It’s surprisingly good even it was not the kind of dessert I liked, but honestly it’s very good. And for once, the wine went well with, it was a Reisling. That comes as the very best moment in my husband’s meal.
And to finish, the fried vemicelli with a strawberries sauce and some toasted pistachio had nothing very special (but it was good), but ice wine with Gewurztzraminer cepage was divine! I still remember the rich bouquet in my mouth when I think about it.
All plates are worked in very details, cooking techniques are all mastered. And the cuisine is overall inventive, surprising. It is a bit expensive, but given the quality of the place, the service and the dishes, really justifed. Therefore there is no doubt why this restaurant is regularly elected as one of the best in Latin America, and we won’t argue against. But did we like it? The rude honnest answer is no. Except one or two plates (by the way not the sames for my husband and for me), we did not really taste the biais chosen by the Chefs; this one too sweet, that one lacks of pep, the wine not fiting with the plate… Nothing objective but a mutual agreement we won’t return soon, even if this sounds unfair and may be wrong.
Just to finish with the latest news: the moment we write this article, Biko has been once again elected for the 65th place of World Best Restaurant for the year 2017.
Presidente Masaryk 407 Polanco, Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 Ciudad de México,
Tel: +52 55 5282 2064
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday: 1:30 pm-11:00 pm.